R.I.P. Andy Irons

Not many of you know this but I grew up as a beach bum and surfing grom. No, I wasn’t reared on epic breaks in a far away land and to be honest the biggest set I ever dropped in on was probably only about 6′ overhead and I probably grenaded it. But there was something so peaceful and spiritual about paddling out for that sunrise set and just being there in that environment the rhythmic motion of the swells slowly moving you everything was in tune. Along with those memories I have others of the washbowl breaks and seeing local heroes like Slater hit the early sets with rising super stars Rob Machado and Andy Irons. Those were the days of greatness, more so for them than I but I felt like I was a part of it because they shared their waves and allowed us all to watch in awe as they took command of the sea. So it is with great sadness that today I learned that Any Irons has died suddenly of Dengue Fever.

Andy Irons will always be the young kid blasting into the surfing world and always giving Kelly Slater a run for his money surpassing all of his peers and thrashing into 3 world championships. I for one will always remember those calm days of peace out there feeling truly sublime and I can only think that that is exactly where Andy is now.